In Part 1 we discussed why you might want to make changes to Sailrite’s instructions for Sail Pack steps. In Part 2 we go step by step through those instructions indicating where you would apply those changes. These instruction variations apply to the old Sailrite sail pack instructions.
Links to referenced hardware
Step 1: Sail Pack Measurements
The only changes I made here was to allow an extra inch at the forward edge of the cover and a little extra at the aft end to allow for a strap to close off the aft end securely. If you know you are going to use a connector on your pvc pipe (either because you cannot get pipe long enough or wish to have it in smaller pieces for ease of storage) you might need to add an inch or so to height for a larger batten pocket (see step 5).
Step 2: Cover Panels
If you are not buying the Sailrite kit you will need to make your own pattern from the measurements you took in step 1. I recommend you draw this up on graph paper, and mark the lazy jack connection points as well. Transfer the outline and the lazy jack connections to the material. This took me a long time – and was difficult to do because I didn’t have any place large enough to lay out the entire 18’ cover required for my boom. This is where the graph paper came in handy – for each foot of length I could mark off the appropriate height using the numbers on the graph paper. The only change besides marking the lazy jack positions (for the webbing straps) that might be required here is in making sure the fold-over for the batten pocket will fit your batten / PVC / connectors.
Step 3: Pocket Patches
Sailrite suggests Dacron for the interior reinforcement where the end of the pvc pipe will rub against the pocket, but use whatever abrasion-resistant material you have. I had scraps of Top Gun which I used but Stamoid, Herculon, Weblon and other materials would be good as well.
Step 4: Hems Fore and Aft
If you choose to use twist lock fasteners rather than zippers to connect the front of the cover to the mast boot, make sure to put the female side (the hole) on the main cover so the sticky-out parts will only be an issue when the sail is covered (and presumably the boat is not moving). In other words the removable mast boot should have the male portion. Also make the hems at least an inch wide to accommodate the fasteners. You may even want to put some top gun inside the hem to make a stronger connection for the fasteners. Buckles could also be used.
Added Step 4a: Add Reinforcement for Jack Line Attachment
If you are adding the webbing straps at each lazy jack connection point (I hope you already marked these in step 2!) you can sew these on now. The webbing strap will be sewed down from about 6” from the bottom edge (so you can still fold the hem up in step 7) to 7” from the top (so you can still fold the batten pocket down).
- Leave an extra 2” of webbing strap unattached on the top edge on both panels – to secure the D ring for the lazy jack to tie to.
- Leave an extra 2” or webbing strap past the bottom of the port side to attach the female buckle to.
- Leave an extra 6 or 8” of webbing strap at the bottom of the starboard side to attach the male buckle to and allow for adjustments.
- Sew D rings into the top of each webbing strap. You can leave this until after Step 5 if you would like to.
Step 5: Batten Pockets
Step 6: Upper Hem and Long Zipper
No changes to these steps. You might choose to use Top Gun or whatever abrasion resistant material you have on hand in step 5 rather than buying Dacron for this purpose. If you haven’t sewed on the D rings for the lazy jacks yet, do this now.
Step 7: Bottom Hems
When you hem the bottom hem, make sure not to sew down the webbing straps. Pull these back and out of the way as you hem.
Step 8: Mast Boot Zippers
If you choose to use twist lock fasteners, don’t add the zipper to the front of each panel – instead put a female (hole) fastener every four to six inches along the front edge of each panel. Make sure one is close to the top, one close to the bottom, and spread them evenly in between.
Step 9: Bottom Closure
You can skip this if you are using the buckles instead.
Step 10: Common Sense (Twist Lock) Fasteners on Bottom Edge
If you are using the webbing buckles, you can sew down the female buckles onto the port side panel now. In step 4a you left extra strap at the bottom. Thread this through a female buckle part and sew the buckle down to the panel. You may want to align the bottom of the buckle with the hem line.
You will eventually need to thread the male buckles onto the extra length of webbing on the starboard side panels, but not until you put the cover on the boat. You’ll thread the webbing through under the sail, then thread the male buckle onto the strap and close the buckle witj the female buckle on the port side panel.
Step 11: D Rings at Aft Corners
If you want to add an aft closure now there are a couple of ways to do it. If you left your aft end long, you can trim one side and add the soft velcro (loop) to that side facing outwards. To the long end add the other side of the velcro (hook) facing inwards. If you didn’t leave the ends long enough, just create a largish patch (4-6″ high and long enough to be sewed to one side and to wrap around and overlap the other site. Then sew velcro to the patch and to the opposing panel.
Step 12: Mast Boot
If you have winches or mast steps, add slits or holes for those now. I reinforced the edges of the slits and holes with bias binding.
Step 13: Mast Boot Zippers
If you are going with the Twist Lock Fasteners, you can attach the male fasteners to the mast boot at the same vertical offsets you put the female fasteners in Step 8. Or you can wait until the cover is done and installed and mark the locations on the mast boot then. That will give you a perfect fit around the mast and any obstructions.
Step 14: Lazy Jack System
No changes, but make sure to use the method where the lazy jacks are attached to the TOP of the sail pack – this holds up the sail pack and is easier than fussing with boom attachments.
Step 15: Webbing Loops
If you added the reinforcing webbing straps in 4a your D rings are already on the cover.
Step 16: Battens
Step 17: Logo
No changes.
